We jumped on buying an inexpensive flight to Zagreb, Croatia in early September. We had 7 days and only booked the first night stay in Zagreb. Once in Croatia, we booked our accommodations for the next night every day. Based on friends suggestions, we hit a lot of sights using a rented car (~$20/day). Here is the itinerary;
Day 1 – Arrive in Zagreb. Take Croatian Air bus to main bus terminal. Walk to the apartment. All the places we stayed were wonderful and inexpensive by US/Western European standards. Zagreb has a lot of sights including a cathedral and most importantly, a very large concentration and outdoor cafe culture. Dinner at Agava Restaurant. We decide it would be ok to come back another day before we fly home.
Day 2 – Bus back to the airport and pickup the rental car. 2 hours drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We rush a 2 hour hike at this natural wonder that does get a lot of tourist. Back in the car to Zadar to stay at another apartment in the center of the old city. Walking around is the thing to do here and everywhere with key sites being a Roman Forum, basilica, water organ, and good food at Konoba Skoblar.
Day 3 – After a cafe breakfast, 4 hour highway drive to the southern part of Croatia for the walled old city of Dubrovnik. First surprise is before we get there there is a border crossing into Bosnia where we happily get a passport stamp. Although AirBnB failed us, Booking.com landed us amazing centrally located 2 bedroom and thankfully air-conditioned apartment for two days. One could go on and on about this being one of the worlds most amazing cities especially when the hordes from the cruise ships leave. Be sure to find one of the 2 bars (one being Cafe Buza) located on the rocks outside the walls and just walk walk walk. The only thing we missed was taking the cable car up the mountain due to long lines of people from buses. While almost everything in Croatia is cheaper, parking is not. We found a parking garage that was $50/day. More than many rooms!
Day 5 – 3 hour drive up the coast to Split. Apartment a block away from the Roman palace and next to the fish market (this is a good thing!). Like Dubrovnik, just wander around through the hidden streets and shake your head how people built new structures within an 17 hundred year old Roman palace. We check out the beach which is more different than charming.
Day 6 – 45 minute drive to a small coastal island of Trogir. Very charming town and apartment. Climb the fort at dusk for pictures, see the cathedral, fishmarket, and enjoy walking the narrow streets.
Trogir, Croatia
Day 7 – 4 hour drive back to Zagreb to a different apartment and use a parking garage (reasonably priced). Hit the cafes and some museums (Broken Relationships, Old master, modern art) before finding the famous Tkalciceva street with all of the restaurants we missed the first day here. Early morning flight the next day. Driving in Croatia is easy but be careful of the trams in Zagreb.
Total driving – ~1300 km. / ~800 miles. A smartphone with cellular roaming on removes most of the stress (as long as you get data roaming from your carrier in advance). Paid AmericanExpress $20 total in advance for additional car insurance rather than Hertz.
